Description

This belay carabiner from DMM perhaps the best HMS biner we’ve seen. There’s a lot of this style of biner going round now trying to stop cross loading but the DMM Ceros just seems to nail all the fine points making it super easy to use with no annoying quirks.

Carabiners are strong. Too strong really. But one of their little weaknesses that you need to be aware of is cross loading. Biner’s are designed to take the weight along the spine, not against it, so when you’re belay biner tunes at a 90 degree angle with force against the gate and the spine – this is the carabiner at its weakest. Enter about 5 years ago a host of carabiners from lots of manufacturers looking to address the issue by creating ways of captivating the belay loop. These are all great but they all seem to just have their little nuances that make them either tricky to use at first or take half a second more to set up then a standard biner (us climbers like complaining I know). But now DMM have finally come to the table and have just smoothed out all the issues.

Firstly the belay loop captive method is the easiest to use being a snap wire gate. This also goes in the right direction unlike some others, meaning it automatically clicks in when you put it on your belay loop, and you have to manually take it out.

The DMM Ceros also has the Rhino horn, a feature borrowed from the Rhino biner (a great biner by the way). This is particularly great for GriGri’s but will also work for any tubular, ATC style belay device to stop it sliding onto the spine of the carabiner.

You can also choose between three different gate options (this product is the screw gate version) so you’re not limited to one gate option for your belay biner.

Combine all of this with the fact that this carabiner is made by DMM in Wales who make the best biners in the world (yep it’s true). Their gate springs seem to last longer, screw and auto-lock gate closure lasts longer, their’s no ‘gritty’ gate sliding and their finishes are beautiful. This means the DMM Ceros will be your favourite belay carabiner for years to come.

DMM Ceros Screw Gate Belay Carabiner Features

Internal wiregate to correctly align the ‘biner on the belay loop to minimise the chance of cross- loading.
Rhino horn to stop belay device sliding around to the spine of the biner.
Durable belay biner
Prevents cross-loading with all assisted locking belay devices and tubular style belay devices
Full cross-section top bar for greater wear resistance and smooth belaying
High strength, compact size, low weight
Available with Screwgate, Quicklock, and Locksafe locking systems